The deep dive into exactly how Audemars Piguet's Code 11. 59 series continues to progress
Audemars Piguet's Code 11. 59 collection was created in 2019 with a bible-sized blast. Thirteen watches altogether. Six different sub-series, through three-hand with date in order to minute repeater. Three brand new in-house movements. A whole fresh case. And over 500 remarks on HODINKEE's original initial post. The explosions had been heard all over the world, but not completely welcome.
There was clearly so much to do that day, as well as honestly too much to form the coherent opinion right away. Probably the most prestigious and oldest brand names in Swiss watchmaking offers launched a brand new collection not related to the company's flagship Royal Oak. For better or even worse, Audemars Piguet may be the Royal Oak, and the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet.
So if a possibility the Royal Oak, the particular heck is Code 11. 59? Three years following a difficult debut, it feels such as the Code 11. 59 collection is finally starting to discover its sweet spot. Listed below are three steps Audemars Piguet has taken to achieve this goal.
Code 11. 59 is inherently complex Much of the negative rhetoric encircling Code 11. 59 provides focused on the time and day of Code 11. fifty nine, the simplest entry-level model within the series, with a very poor execution. Granted, the watch does not look much better today, however it's also never been the actual hero of the collection.
There's a reason the particular AP has released so many different variations of Code 11. fifty nine -- it's to demonstrate the flexibleness of the case profile as the house of complications. Focusing on 3 hands completely misses the idea and, as a result, many overlook the biggest news of the Program code 11. 59 launch (development of a new in-house incorporated automatic chronograph movement, la mecanique 4400, AP's first in one facility chronograph). Yes, it's AP's fault to include it inside the initial batch, but it can understandable that it wants to provide more affordable execution to market.
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Audemars Piguet possesses slowly corrected its earlier missteps. I don't remember when it last introduced the brand new third-hand code 11. fifty nine reference to the market, and AP has been experimenting with new difficulties and new formats with regard to existing complex models. Read the big news I protected earlier this week - typically the Associated Press released about three different Code 11. fifty nine models that, in my opinion, are a couple of the best looking examples however.
There's a brand-new pair of flying tourbillon versions that aren't just vacant containers with tourbillons inside them, they feature details just like the inky dials made of strong onyx and aesthetic changes like no numerals used. Don't overlook the skeleton product, which highlights the insane symmetrical movement architecture embellished to the highest standards within. (Did I mention often the crazy shade of glowing blue on the bridge? Yes. I believe it's pretty sweet. )
The same ridiculous symmetry is found in the motion layout of the Code eleven. 59 Flying Tourbillon Wathe, a watch beast with shown movement execution and flyback chronograph functions.
There's no Code 11. fifty nine Grande Sonnerie this time around (the AP did it in 2020), but surprisingly these appear a lot more complete than the fairly ordinary lacquered dials within the first Code 11. fifty nine watches. Yes, both the Traveling Tourbillon and the Skeleton Traveling by air Tourbillon were included in the very first Code 11. 59 types in 2019 (the Mixed Tourbillon Chronograph also joined up with the collection in 2020), however the execution has only experienced the past three years improved. I am talking about, come on, how can you not trash over the wild double strengthen bridges and crazy level perspective in the Code 10. 59 Flying Tourbillon Timepiece? If it came from an independent studio room in the Vallée de Joux, collectors would politely get in line around the block.
Mixed materials bring the best code 11. 59 The solid onyx switch on the latest Code 14. 59 flying tourbillon could be the main material of the a few reference materials I included last Wednesday, but the most significant material in all three products is ceramic. One of the advantages of the two-part Code 11. 59 case design that this Associated Press swept up around three years ago was the ability to utilize two different types of materials in a single watch.
All new Code 11. fifty nine references use an octagonal internal ceramic case (Code 11. 59's only reference to the actual Royal Oak), enclosed through 18k white gold or rose gold colored lug cages. The result is really interesting aesthetically, creating an unexpected two-tone effect through the application of any superhard inner ceramic situation that protects the movements and the precious metal bezel, lugs and caseback.
Two of the three new Code 11. 59 watches launched last week feature a black hard inner case, but the Hovering Tourbillon Openworked features a vibrant blue ceramic inner circumstance, using the same blue fine ceramic craftsmanship as the Royal Oak Blue ceramic Danny themself last week Experience the perpetual work schedule. Colored ceramics are more to be able to achieve than black and white ceramics; it wasn't until the early on 2010s that sintering procedures were figured out to achieve colours like blue, red and also green. Of course , these interior shells are all hand-decorated, having a satin-brushed central area along with polished chamfers.
While AP does beautify the ceramic material by itself, it works with suppliers to create the material. (Not surprising-few Switzerland watch brands make their very own ceramics. All I know associated with are Rolex, and maybe Début. ) AP works with an organization called Bangerter, which utilizes a combination of zirconia powder along with a an undisclosed adhesive. The actual binder is removed prior to the sintering process begins, yet after the five-axis CNC device has shaped the unique octagonal inner shell. The particular blue shade (and hardness) of the ceramic material will certainly eventually appear when warmed to about 1, four hundred degrees Celsius.
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Well, Audemars Piguet and Bangerter seem to be in a position to withstand the heat.
color is king A week ago, after the launch of the completely new Code 11. 59 design, I spoke with some primary members of the Audemars Piguet team and they discussed a few of their processes. As it turns out, colour selection is often one of the last stages of product development, however it goes hand-in-hand with a watch's specific material selection. Following the complexity and materials happen to be determined, the colors of the call, case and movement elements are all taken into account. " You will find two ways to color components, " a member of the AP team told me. “You can also add a layer to it, you might as well go into the material itself. ” For example , the bright azure bridges on the self-winding skeletal system tourbillon are made of titanium as it is easier to apply a specific atomic layer deposition (ALD) procedure, which provides vivid hues.
In the new Computer code 11. 59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, the combination of dark ceramic and 18k rose gold colored creates a unique two-tone impact that is ultimately an visually smart move as well. In contrast to the more traditional two-tone style approach that may seem went out with, the ultra-clean black porcelain surrounded by a precious metal event feels unexpectedly modern, improving the visual effect of the skeletonized lugs and interior octagonal case.
That isn't Audemars Piguet's first encounter in a two-tone world -- far from it. (However, to be able to reflect history fully in addition to accurately, there are very few classic Audemars Piguet complication timepieces. Audemars Piguet is said to get produced a total of 8 two-tone complication watches within three years between 1882 as well as 1969. Oak before the debut. ) The first large Code 11. 50 achievement story was actually the two-tone skeleton tourbillon that AP donated to the Only Watch charitable organisation auction in 2019 and lastly sold for an impressive CHF 1 million, the most available One of the most expensive AP wrist watches at auction. The accomplishment of this unique piece definitely foreshadows the latest Code 13. 59 release: all three designs feature the two-tone, two-material combination first deployed of them costing only Watch.
These days, Royal Oak is known regarding having a plethora of visual variants to choose from, but it required the company decades to really begin experimenting with octagonal shapes and also textured-finish dial finishes. However from the jet black minimalism of the onyx dial Codes 11. 59 Flying Tourbillon to the electric blue features on the bridges, we did not hesitate to expand the particular Code 11. 59's variety to be as wide-ranging as you can. New skeleton flying tourbillon.
Something informs me that by the time 2069 gets there, we won't be celebrating Computer 11. 59's 50th wedding anniversary in the same way that the entire view industry has recognized typically the Royal Oak this year throughout the Golden Jubilee. Code eleven. 59 is definitely not a Regal Oak, but that doesn't imply it's a failure as a products, or even that it deserves exactly the same level of high criticism all of us saw when it launched 3 years ago.
A great deal can change in three years. Whenever Code 11. 59 arrived, Baselworld and SIHH have been still around. There's no global outbreak to consider, and older, out-of-date AP series like Millenary and Jules Audemars happen to be in the recent rearview mirror. I understand I've changed a lot in the last three years, and while I'm hesitant to dictate human nature to view brands, I think AP might have learned from the distracting problems of the original Code 10. 59 release and is right now able to focus at its highest quality.
After all, often the Code 11. 59 sequence caused such a stir with regards to first debuted, and its constant, incremental improvements are only fittingly under the spotlight.
